Crafted as a lavish 30th Birthday Gift for Queen Emma by the French jeweler Mellerio dits Meller in 1888, the Mellerio Ruby Parure holds a fascinating history within the Dutch royal family. Designed by Oscar Massin, this regal ensemble, with an original cost of 160 000 florins, nowadays that would be approximately 2.1 million euros in 2021, stands as a testament to both timeless elegance and craftsmanship.
Evolution of Design During the parure's creation, a silver test model revealed the original necklace's weightiness, prompting a design change towards a lighter version and the addition of a stomacher. The initial plan involved sapphires as accent stones, but the design transitioned to incorporate rubies of exceptional quality. The resulting parure comprises a Tiara, versatile earrings, necklace, bracelet, stomacher, brooch, and a fan.
A Monarch's Tribute A year after receiving the parure, Queen Emma faced the unfortunate passing of King Willem III. Following mourning traditions, rubies were prohibited, leading Queen Emma to wear the diamond-adorned test model instead. Undeterred, she continued to showcase the Mellerio Ruby Parure in various events and portraits until her passing in 1934.
Passing the Jewel Baton Upon Queen Emma's demise, Queen Wilhelmina inherited the parure, and subsequent generations of Dutch queens continued to wear this parure for special occasions. Queen Juliana notably adorned the devant de corsage during her inauguration, while Queen Beatrix frequently wore the tiara, and parts of the parure were even worn by Princess Margriet and others.
Picture 5, Copyright: PPE Agency
The Parure's Magnificent Components The Mellerio Ruby Parure encompasses a fan, earrings, a tiara, a necklace, a bracelet, a small brooch, and a large devant a corsage. Each piece exhibits a distinctive blend of rubies and diamonds. Components of the Parure:
1. Fan:
Rarely utilized in contemporary times, the fan boasts a distinctive design with three rubies and numerous diamonds set in an ear-shaped frame. Internally, it features an artful painting by Louis-Robert de Cuvillon—a portrayal of a reclining woman draped in pink and white fabric.
2. Earrings:
The earring set showcases rubies with an oval halo of diamonds. Wearers have the flexibility to wear them directly on the ear or suspend them from a cluster of diamonds. The cluster can be directly connected to the rubies or linked by a strand of diamonds.
3. Tiara:
The tiara is an ensemble of five curled ornaments, with two rubies in three of them, while the remaining are crafted from diamonds. Three strings of diamonds dangle between the five elements, creating a visual resemblance to a drawbridge.
4. Necklace:
The necklace features a substantial lock with a central ruby. Comprising three strands of diamonds, the chain leads to the lock, exhibiting a style reminiscent of the tiara's ornaments.
5. Bracelet:
The bracelet boasts a sizable clasp, in the styles of the necklace and tiara, adorned with two rubies and three strands of diamonds.
6. Small Brooch:
A petite yet elegant brooch, incorporating a single ruby and of course again in the same style as the other jewelry. The piece is further embellished with diamonds.
7. Large Devant a Corsage:
This substantial piece, embellished with three rubies and surrounded by diamond icicles, complements the overall curly design theme. The bottom ruby, designed as an oval pendant, is detachable and can potentially be fixed to a chain or the small brooch.
Queen Juliana is probably the last queen to wear the parure as a set at once, excluding the fan.
Present-Day Royal Affection In contemporary times, Queen Maxima has expressed a particular fondness for the tiara within the parure, deeming it probably her favorite jewelry set. Adapting it to her taste, she dismantled the large brooch and innovatively wore its center part as a pendant. Maxima, like Queen Juliana, has also adjusted the earrings, occasionally replacing the original rubies with pearls.
A Young Heir's Admiration Looking toward the future, the Mellerio Ruby Parure has captured the admiration of the future queen of the Netherlands, Princess Amalia. Starting her fondness for the tiara at the age of 8, the parure's legacy seems to continue its journey through generations of Dutch royalty.
The Mellerio Ruby Parure, a symbol of opulence and refinement, has seamlessly woven itself into the fabric of Dutch royal history. From its inception as a birthday gift to Queen Emma to becoming a cherished parure for contemporary queens and future heirs, this exquisite parure remains a testament to the enduring allure of regal jewelry.
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